This emerald cut has flaws under its table, but still has a nice color, tone level and flash. It weighs 1.70 carats and if set in a pendant etc. the flaws would not be distracting.
The most important decision that will effect the beauty of a gemstone are made during the preforming process with me. I spend relatively little time deciding the future of the gemstone before I remove the material that I am sure can not be incorporated in it. As the preforming continues, I reevaluate the changing potential of the stone. One of the most important consideration is trying to keep any distracting flaws from being directly under the table. I also try and minimize the distraction caused by a flaw, by orienting them perpendicular to the table. Another is off course, how can I retain enough weight to get a good yield and a decent stone. The choice of cut, even with my limited repertory, is important to the future beauty of the gemstone.
This smaller included emerald cut speaks to me of the compromises that are made many times in producing a gem. The gemstone has very good color, which in blue, particularly, means that it was expensive rough. Its size is on the low side for being a nice ring stone. Its tone level is moderately light and the stone should be kept as deep as possible to retain its medium pastel look. The rough’s weakness, flaws, are radial in nature and common with tourmaline.
To cut anything, but an emerald cut. would have wasted a significant amount of material. With the rough’s level of saturation, it would be trivial to pick an emerald cut, if the rough would have been clean. Emerald cuts are excellent at showing off the color of the rough, because of their depth and restrained flash, but any flaws that are under the table are very obvious. So the choice really came down to optimal size and color with an included emerald cut or maybe a round that would still be included, but not show the flaws very much. The final choice of an included emerald cut is supported by how the gemstone might eventually be displayed. If set in a pendant or broach the flaws would not be noticeable at a normal viewing distance and the color and flash of the gemstone would win the day with either cut.
I have to talk about an option that is being cut today, that I do not support. It is the cutting of gemstones without tables. Some of the cuts are called pillow cuts and consist of square to rectangular shaped facets that completely cover the crown of the gemstone. The surface flash from these facets inhibits the eye from clearly seeing into the stone and are useful on included stones. This stone would have been a suitable candidate for a pillow cut. But I believe in tables,for better or worse, for they are the pathway to the soul of a gemstones. The place I want to reach each and every time I cut a piece of tourmaline rough. This soul mate weighs 1.70 carats and is pretty.
Bruce
